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Little Italy big on taste
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Posted by lward Tue Apr 18, 2006 13:55:16 PDT
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0 responses 0 comments The owner of Little Italy, who prefers to be known simply as Chang, said he’s learned not to underestimate the people of Bakersfield.
“They know good food,” said Chang, a Brimhall Estates resident who’s been in town two years and can be found seven days a week at his 32-seat, white-tablecloth restaurant, tucked away in the Town and Country Shopping Center on Stockdale Highway and Coffee Road.
Though it’s only been open about a year, Chang said Little Italy already has a loyal clientele eager to dig into the grilled porkchops pinenut ($16.95) and chicken picatta ($13.95).
“Most of our customers come at least twice a month, and many three times a week,” said Chang, who prepares every dish himself.
Chang, seated on a dark wood chair in the tiny dining room, which features two large murals, with music from “Phantom of the Opera” playing in the background, said we can thank his wife, Nu, for his ending up here.
Born in Thailand — where his mother owned a restaurant — he moved with his family to Washington, D.C., in the 1970s, and stayed there to complete his education, make his way up in the restaurant business and raise a family of his own, which now includes three children and two grandchildren. He moved back to Thailand briefly in 1980 to open a Western steakhouse, but the market at that time wasn’t accommodating.
Chang visited Bakersfield over the years with Nu to see her dearest friend from Chicago, a nurse at Kern Medical Center.
“Then she convinced me to come to the West Coast to try and make a living,” said Chang. He was hoping for the “coast” coast, but agreed to try it out here first.
Chang chose the location for Little Italy because he found the shopping center pleasant and relatively quiet. He chose Italian fare because he finds it easy to cook.
The dignified Ben, who worked with Chang for years in D.C., came to Bakersfield in April to man the “front of the house.” “We’re like brothers,” said Chang.
Little Italy is so small that you’ll inevitably overhear other diners’ conversations. For appetizers, they’ll probably be discussing whether to opt for the calamari fritti, lightly fried baby squids served with tomato sauce ($6.95); the mozzarella marinara, fresh buffalo mozzarella dipped in egg and breadcrumbs and deep fried, served with marinara sauce ($7.95); or the Italian sausage and peppers, mild Italian sausage sauteed with sweet peppers, onion and tomato sauce served with grilled polenta ($7.95).
Soups include the minestrone ($4.95) and potatoes and leek ($4.95), and salads include the Greek spinach ($6.95) and antipasto ($10.95).
Menu items described as “classic Italian,” all for $9.95, include spaghetti and meatballs, cappellini bolones, meat lasagna and cheese manicotti.
Pasta selections on the dinner menu include the penne with vodka cream, chopped fresh tomatoes, garlic and basil in a vodka cream sauce ($13.95); the cappellini scampi, jumbo shrimp sauteed with garlic butter, white wine and parsley ($18. 95); fettuccine cabonara, panchetta, onion and egg yolk with cream and Parmesan cheese ($13.95); and linguini frutti di mare, linguini pasta with shrimp, scallops, clams and mussels in a spicy marinara sauce ($20.95).
If a house specialty is more up your alley, you might try the chicken saltimbocca, a chicken breast rolled with prosciutto, mozzarella cheese and sage and cooked in mushroom Madeira wine sauce ($16.95); veal tenderloin, two 4-ounce veal tenderloins sauteed in brandy mushroom sauce ($24.95); or salmon Mediterranean ($18.95), Atlantic salmon sauteed with chopped tomatoes, capers, garlic, calamata olive, oregano and white wine butter sauce ($18.95). All specialties include fresh vegetables and pasta with tomato sauce.  
Beer and wine are also available, as are daily specials. The lunch menu includes sandwiches.
If you plan on going to Little Italy, it’s wise to make a reservation. Chang said there’s always a crowd at 6:30 p.m.
Chang is currently expanding Little Italy to accommodate an additional 65 people.

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