The Southwest Voice

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This column is a continuation of our last discussion about Pinot Noir, one of the world’s great wines. It is a difficult grape to grow and a very tricky one to turn into the superb wine it can be. I first fell in love with it 35 years ago, and then spent the ensuing 20 years looking for other great bottles — which were few and far between here in California. I had to search through select Los Angeles wine shops for the bottles of French Burgundy that I could afford. Remember, Pinot is the only varietal used in that wonderful wine. That luscious bright red or deep black cherry taste is so appealing.

How things have changed! California winemakers and growers have really learned how to make outstanding Pinot Noir. They learned where it grew best (the key ingredient), and how to handle it carefully and gently during the winemaking process. They moved it from the hot and hearty climes of the Napa Valley to the cooler areas of the Carneros Region at the top of San Francisco Bay (San Pablo Bay), and wineries such as Saintsbury, Carneros Creek, Acacia, Bouchaine, Truchard, Buena Vista, and most recently, The Donum Estate, came to our attention with their appealing Pinots.

The newer California world of truly great Pinot Noir moved to Sonoma County and the area through which the Russian River flows out to the Pacific. If your long weekend wine trips have only been to Napa, you need to reconsider. Go to the adjacent county on the west. Superb wine is flowing from DuMOL, Dehlinger, Rochioli, Martinelli, Marcassin, Flowers, Paul Hobbs, Kosta Browne, Williams Selyem — wine so good you can’t find it on any shelves. Sigh, what’s a true aficionado to do? I learned early in my pursuit of this hobby to put my name on the mailing list of any new winery whose product caught my attention. This is the only way I get my fill. Visit their Web sites and, if you are willing, ask to be put on their waiting lists. It may take a few years, but that’s the only way to be able to get some without paying extra exorbitant prices.

Pinot needs a cool growing location and prime new areas have been developed in Anderson Valley in Mendocino County (try Goldeneye, Londer, Loring), Santa Lucia Highlands in Monterey County just west of the Salinas Valley (Roar, Pisoni, any winery making wine from Garys’ or Rosella’s Vineyards), and the Santa Rita Hills in the Santa Ynez Valley (look for Sea Smoke, Brewer-Clifton, Foley, Melville).
There are a few good Pinot spots closer to home. Make your next Central Coast weekend include a trip to the Edna Valley, just east of San Luis Obispo and visit Baileyana and Domaine Alfred, or try Talley in Arroyo Grande, or search for Sinor-LaVallee in SLO wineshops.

Why should you do all this? Because searching out a great Pinot is a rewarding experience to a wine lover and an eye-opener to a beginner. Cabernet Sauvignon is the king of red wine: big, bold, and filled with bravado. Easy to grow, easy to make — very few bad bottles, easy to love. Pinot Noir is the queen: elegant, soft, subtle — worth the effort to find and treasure.

What’s not to love?

— Comments? Questions? E-mail Ann at: acierley@etcrier.net

Coming Events
May 29 — Super wine tasting at Luigi’s at 6 p.m., great wines and hors d’ouvres. Cost is $60. To RSVP or for details, call 322-0926.

May 30 — Last Friday of the month wine tasting at Cafe Med. Cost is $25. To RSVP or for details, call 834-4433.