The Southwest Voice

Recently I received this question from two readers: "What's so special about Riedel glasses and why would a wino want them?" These two had learned of the glasses from a trip to the Paso Robles wine area. They were actually given the glasses to take home as part of their $5.00 tasting fee. This is a good question indeed.

Glasses are a very important part of the whole wine scene, and have been for a very long time. Obviously you need one to drink the liquid. Of course, one could just hoist the jug or ladle it out of the barrel, and we know it was poured into cups for centuries to serve to guests and to drink for supper, but now the glass is the vessel of choice and much is made of it. The choice of glassware is often as important to the success of the evening in the hosts' mind as the food selections for dinner!.

The early cups of sturdy earthenware became actual art objects and beautiful chalices and goblets adorned wealthy wine lovers' tables through the centuries until the glass was perfected. Now it is certainly the instrument of choice for wine drinking and woe unto those who don't get it right, sayeth the wine geek.

Whoa (not woe) say I. There are literally hundreds of shapes, sizes and colors of wine glasses for sale everywhere. Help!

First, the color. Simple answer, no color. Wine glasses should be clear. Enjoy the color of the wine. An important component of the wine tasting ritual is examining each wine's color to see that it is characteristic of the varietal. A wine is valued for the purity and richness of its color be it red or white, and we all know of the many gradations that can ensue. I love the various shades of yellow that can exist in a Chardonnay, or the perfect, clear red that is the hallmark of a Pinot Noir or the deep purplish Cabernets. You've got to be able to see the color of the wine, hence no colored glasses. Also just looking down into the glass can also tell you if a wine is too old (rusty edges) or has some other flaw.

Next, the shape. We all kind of know that there's the regular old wine glass and then there's the champagne glass and some of us even know of that little thimble glass that holds a swallow or two of dessert wines (those real sweet ones). Most of us also know that we seem to get two different sizes if we order red or white wines - the smaller, narrower one being for the white and the larger, rounder bowl shape being for the reds.

But, and here's where the Riedels (pronounced Ree-dulls) come in, recently glass-making scientist types have developed different glasses for different varietals and have actually engineered shapes that better expose the taste of the wine to your mouth and lips and tongue! No kidding.

I wish I had pictures to show you, but it would take up most of several pages. Wine appreciation classes are your best bet as you could then give each a taste test too, but actually you can try going on-line and Googling "Riedel".

Do not despair however. You don't have to buy dozens of different expensive glasses now. Riedel, an Austrian crystal firm from the late 1600's, has a tasting glass that has become a standard in fine restaurants and you can drink all your favorite wines out of it. One size really will fit all.

OK, OK Does the shape of the glass really make a difference in how it tastes? Wine experts worldwide say it does. I agree. More than fifteen years ago I was attending a huge wine event sponsored by Wine Spectator magazine in San Francisco. George Riedel was making a presentation of his latest glassware. Many of us were skeptical of the taste-affecting powers he attributed to his glasses. Robert Mondavi stood up in the crowd, announced he too had been a skeptic and then led us through a tasting. Both gentlemen clearly presented to me the difference the right glass can make in tasting wine. I'm a believer now too.

Just what did I find out? A glass that is wider at the base or center and then curves narrower at the top helps direct the aromas into your nose and therefore influences the taste. The narrower top also concentrates the liquid on your tongue, enhancing the tastes in your mouth. And even the different edges on the top of the glass help direct the wine to a different spot in your mouth. Imagine!

There's a lot to this glass shape business and I strongly suggest you invest in a Riedel or two, have some friends over, and do a taste test with several kinds of glasses yourself. Try your old ones against a Riedel. I'll bet you can taste the difference.

I don't own all the different glasses for the various varietals, so I don't know if the Sauvignon Blanc glass or the Riesling glass or the Shiraz (yes, there is even a glass for Australian Syrah) glass makes those varietals taste better but chances are they will. I do use the standard Riedel tasting glass nearly all the time now.

Coming Events:
• Wine Down, Thursdays from 5:30 to 7 p.m. at the Petroleum Club. An open-to-the-public wine tasting event. $20
• Wednesday, Oct. 10, Pasta Night at Wine Me Up (Coffee Road)
• Friday, Oct. 19, Bakerfield Friends of Wine winemaker dinner at Bakersfield Country Club - Mirassou Winery. Call Klaus Hoeper for reservations. 871-6463 $62 for 6 wines and dinner.