The Southwest Voice

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Across the boulevard from The Forbidden City is Tiananmen Square, just the name of which conjures a mixture of fear and mistrust in most Americans. 

The square is immense; the largest public square in the world. 

In 1989, one million dissidents filled the square with their chants for reform and shouts for freedom. It was a sobering experience to walk on the same brick-paved ground where tanks and soldiers cleared away protesters. On the day when I was there, it was eerily quiet, the only sound coming from the piercing wind gusting across the square.  

I’ve read many articles on the Internet about the turmoil in China during the 1980s, the resulting demonstration and its horrific conclusion. The materials reveal mixed messages from differing viewpoints. Some say that the events were the result of a military force squelching a peaceful demonstration. Others say that the violence originated with the protesters when they set fire to transports which carried unarmed personnel sent to disperse the crowd. 

Our guide, Rocky, remembered the order for people to stay at home.  Martial law had been implemented and Rocky’s father was away on a business trip. When the mother spoke to the father on the phone, she told him to stay gone until the trouble had passed. 

Although our guide was aware of the deaths of a few hundred students, he was shocked that the western world believes the number of fatalities is much higher. Perhaps the most surprising part of the discussion about Tiananmen Square was that Rocky was able to speak freely about his memories. I felt more uncomfortable about some possible repercussions for him than he did in speaking. He reassured me that he had no reason to be afraid and firmly stated, “I am not worried. I can say what I want.”

No matter what the events were 17 years ago, it appears that the Chinese people enjoy more freedoms today than they used to. In fact, in a discussion I had with several of the guides, they all agreed that the lives of the Chinese people have greatly improved in recent years. The ability to start a business, speak freely, have access to the internet and world affairs and even hear news about their own country has made them feel encouraged about their future. Additionally, recent implementation and enforcement of anti-corruption laws within the government have also done much to satisfy the people.

China does not afford its citizens our type of freedom, but daily life is so much better than it was just a few decades ago that the people are grateful.  Those westerners who are waiting for the fall of communism in China may have a long wait. This strange blend of communism with a capitalistic financial system appears to be making great strides in offering opportunities to its citizens. As long as the people are hopeful, it is doubtful that revolution will overturn the current regime.

For those interested in learning more about the events of June 4, 1989 in Tiananmen Square, the Internet offers a plethora of sites. Although some of these have been closed and are no longer accessible (the reasons for which I do not claim to understand), by misspelling the entry (use Tianenman), more links can be revealed. 

The next day, we left in our buses early in the morning to go to the Great Wall of China.  

Built over a period of 1,800 years, The Great Wall began as a series of smaller walls, with work beginning in 220 B.C. under the rule of the first emperor of China, Qin Shi Huangdi. Slave labor constructed these first earthen walls with towers located at regular intervals which served as guard posts. 

Over the centuries, with each consecutive emperor expanding the length and breadth of the walls, they were eventually connected. The Ming Dynasty (17^th century) is responsible for the stone wall which tourists now see which extends from Shanghai Pass on the Bohai Golf to the Gobi Desert. There have been many restoration projects in more recent years, and at one point the farmers were asked to return the stones they had taken to build their dwellings.

Did I get to the top of the wall? I have a qualified answer. At 3, 948 miles in length, the wall has hundreds of peaks as it follows the mountainous terrain. I climbed the stairs to get on the wall and walked along more than a mile of steep stairs and slanted floors. Having gone up more than three quarters of the way to the highest peak in the surrounding area before experiencing foot pain, I called it “good.” Sometimes enough is enough!

The view was outstanding, but without warm apparel visitors weren’t able to enjoy the scenery. The cold wind that chilled us in Beijing was nothing compared to the icy blasts that cut through the mountains. 

Thankfully, our guide had negotiated for a group rate on some souvenir Cossack hats — a heck of a bargain at only $2! — which,  even with only their fake fur lining, offered wonderful head and ear protection against the wind. The travel agent had forewarned us about the morning so most of us had layered our clothing and brought gloves as well. We may have looked a little silly, all bundled up, but at least we weren’t freezing.

For those contemplating going on The Great Wall, sturdy footwear and a certain degree of fitness is required. The wall is made of irregular sized stones which make the stairways difficult to climb. One stair may only be 2” or 3” high and the next may be 18”. But the stairs, if one takes his time, are easier to negotiate than the inclined floors. 

Today, modern engineers would simply add more stairs, making flat surfaces on which to walk, but for the most part, The Great Wall is a mixture of steps and inclines. With the walkways sometimes as steep as 40 degrees, handrails at times as low as 24” and the stones having rounded tops or missing corners, it is a slow, tedious task of carefully placing one foot in front of the other. I cannot imagine how difficult this would be with snow or ice — probably impossible.

Of course, after having climbed The Great Wall, one needs a great remembrance of the accomplishment. Besides one’s photos there are certificates which can be stamped at the souvenir shops which verify the achievement. After all, if one has braved the elements and survived the excursion, one deserves bragging rites.

E-mail Margie at: custer@ix.netcom.com   

–– Look for more of “The China Chronicles” in following issues of The Voice. Margie Custer is a Southwest resident and writer.