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The China Chronicles Part 8: Xian
Topics: China, Chronicles, Part 8, Xian, Terra Cotta Soldiers, Custer, Margie
Posted by margiecuster Wed Aug 16, 2006 10:51:16 PDT
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            After a police escort to the airport, we boarded a plane for Xian (pronounced Shee-On), which means “western peace.” On the drive from the airport, it became apparent that this area was quite different from the places we had previously seen. Unlike Guilin, Xian is not naturally lush.

            It is warm and dry in this area of China and the farmers need to use irrigation for watering their crops. Fruit tree orchards are abundant in the countryside and are surrounded by brick walls. In the middle of the fields, there are little shacks which are used by the farmers to guard their crops before June harvests.

            The soil has a rich, red color much the same as one would find in Georgia. The Chinese mine the clay, using it to make brick and pottery.  So although this area is not very economically developed, there are many brick buildings. 

            Housing is improving in this mostly agricultural area. Where the very poor used to inhabit caves along the dried creek beds, they have now been relocated to the typical six-story, government-built apartments.

            We drove past many old graveyards adorned with wreaths of paper flowers — it is the Chinese way to honor their ancestors. Today, cremation is mandatory. The burial of ashes is quite expensive and is only allowed in specially designated government lands.

            After a long bus ride, we arrived at the enormous museum housing the Terra Cotta Soldiers. There are three pits which all contain different dig sites. The largest of these pits is more than three football fields long. 

            A structure with an observation floor surrounds each pit, allowing visitors to walk around and see excavation work underway. This floor is made entirely of polished granite. On the flat surfaces it provides an attractive walkway, but on the inclined areas, I think that stairs would have been preferable. (Appropriate footwear is a must as the floor can be quite slippery.)

            The Terra Cotta Soldiers were found by accident in 1974. A farmer was digging a well when he discovered some gold coins and pieces of pottery. He alerted the authorities who came to explore the area. When the archeologists started uncovering large clay figures, the people realized the legends were true. Today, that same farmer has regular book signings (for a fee) at the museum, a small compensation for his extraordinary discovery.

            The first emperor of China was Qin Shi Huang, known for constructing a wall which was the precursor to the Great Wall of China.  As was customary in that time, he was worried that his enemies would persecute him even in the afterlife. So, to guard his future underground burial site, he had an army of 7,000 clay warriors constructed.They are lined up facing East from where the Hun would be attacking.   

            When Qui Shi Huang died in 210 BC, his detailed instructions were carried out. Booby-trapped with poisoned arrows positioned at the entrances and sealed with a closing stone, the tomb was secured. And to conceal the secrets of the tomb’s defenses, he also left orders for his engineers to be buried inside with him. He thought he would be safe.           

            His son ruled for a short time, but the dynasty was short-lived as the son was persuaded to commit suicide. Control of the government fell to a new regime and a fire which burned for three days destroyed the building located on top of the tomb.  Although a few of the Terra Cotta Soldiers were discovered by the invaders and subsequently smashed, no one suspected there were so many. As the years passed, the beams sagged and the ceilings above the tomb collapsed, burying all trace of the once magnificent army.

            The fire is well-documented in Chinese history books, but the amazing clay soldiers were presumed to be a myth. What a find for the archeologists to discover something as great as any tomb in Egypt in their own back yard.

            Each life-size soldier is individually hand-carved and has unique features, apparel, footwear and hairdos that would have been typical of the different warriors in China. There are generals, archers, infantrymen and chariots with horses. 

            Once brightly painted, the figures have faded over the past 2,000 years. Exposure since excavation has caused the paints to deteriorate even further. Therefore, some of the latest discoveries have been recovered with dirt until such time as scientists can find a better way to preserve the colors.

            Some of the figures were found in relatively good shape, but most were severely chipped or shattered. Reconstruction is a painstakingly slow project, and the task of determining to which figure a little piece belongs and where is mind-numbing. It is the most elaborate jigsaw puzzle in history! 

            With all that has been discovered, much more is suspected to exist.  The main tomb where the emperor is buried has yet to be opened.  Sophisticated x-rays have revealed gold coins are inside, and so, the treasury may be contained within. 

            Whatever they find, it is sure to be spectacular and I, along with the rest of the world, can hardly wait to see what it may be.

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Comment From: lakessler1

These are great history lessons, Marge! I didn't realize there were thousands of these "pottery-head" warriors---wow! Comment From: tomasi

Margie, Your China Chronicles is such a wonderfully rich look at China. Love it Joe