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Conquering the Half-Dome
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Anonymous user Tue Nov 30, 1999 00:00:00 PST
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1 response 0 comments On my 16th birthday I spent an evening with a few friends, and later went out to eat with my family. For my mom's birthday she got a lot of presents, and we also went out celebrate.
My dad, however, had more ambitious birthday plans. To get ready for his birthday celebration, I didn't buy any streamers, balloons or other birthday goodies. Instead, I ran every morning for a month out on the River Walk Park trail, ate healthy, and went to bed on time while my dad spent his evenings watching Jackie Chan on the treadmill.
    Last year we were both horribly out of shape when we went up to Nevada Fall, which stands at the halfway fork that splits off to the waterfall and the Half-Dome trail. After that trip my dad became ardent about climbing all the way to the Half-Dome the following year, and so that year came and before I knew it it was July 18 and we were standing in the Yosemite Happy Isles parking lot at 6 in the morning facing a steep 8.2-mile hike up covering a 4,800-foot elevation and then the same distance back with bad knees. 
    For those also interested in this hike, we each had a shoulder-strapped water bottle along with three 1-pint bottles, about 10 power bars (that's for the both of us), and two bags of jerky. So all geared up we were fresh to go and were among the first hikers of the day. Being there early also gives you a great advantage with uncrowded trails and cool morning air, as opposed to the later heat that still manages to settle thick in the mountains. The beginning of the hike is extremely steep and serves as an introduction to what you will be faced with for the next 10 hours. This is when you find out just what kind of shape you are in. If you make it up to the first bridge and break area without loosing too much energy and not having to stop for breaks then you are in good shape for the rest of the trail. However, if you already become winded there it would be a good idea to cut the hike short to either of the upcoming waterfalls.
    After that first ascent there is a small rest area with a water fountain and restroom, so any untied shoelaces or uncomfortable gear should be taken care of here because soon after you are hit with another steep climb. The trail here follows along Vernal Fall, the first waterfall of the hike and about 1.3 miles into the climb. This part is often called the “Mist Trail,” and for good reason –– you climb so close along the waterfall that you are completely soaked before reaching the top. At one point there is a large round cutout in the mountain wall that looks like a great hideout from the shower, but it is cruelly deceptive. As you enter it, instead of feeling relief from the cold water you are greeted by a strong draft of misty air ventilating through the false refuge. The steps along the way are nature's own Stairmaster –– unkindly tall and neverending. Afterward, though, there is a great photo opportunity once you reach the forested area that has a tree parting right in front of the waterfall. Then after another flight of rock comes a little bit tricky area that follows very close to the side of the mountain and requires a railing. If you are taking kids I would suggest keeping them close in front of you just in case, but especially if you are going later in the day when the trail becomes crowded.
The top of this ascent is another great photo opportunity at the edge of the waterfall. There is a welcome flat area where you can rest and have a snack. I know it’s wrong, and I now highly advise you not to do it, but I had a really unpleasant piece of chicken jerky so I fed the animals. For the next 10 minutes I felt like Melanie Daniels from Hitchcock's “The Birds.” But it must be noted that the animals there have ridiculously dulled “animal instincts,” and the squirrels especially. They flock to the nearest hiker taking a break and cutely sniff around, coming within about 2 feet of your legs hoping for some your Fruit-&-Grain bar, making you look like an idiot waving your hands around at them with no avail. 
Just a little farther up is the Emerald Pool, a wide part of the river that is a miraculous deep jade color. The hike after that goes relatively well for a while, and along this area my dad and I had a deer causally cross our way. So the wildlife is there and well along the way, with even a bear spotting about a week before our trip. Soon after is Nevada Fall, or rather the bottom of it. Here is where it really pays to have left early in the morning, because this part is outside of the shade line of the trees but not close enough to get any mist like the previous waterfall.
After reaching the top of this climb is a fork in the road that branches off with the Half-Dome on the left and the top of Nevada Fall on the right. From here can be seen the mammoth giant, intimidating in its prospect of what is still before you. This is also the last bathroom break on the hike, something to definitely be optimized. You should be feeling pretty good at this point, so if not it could be an indication of going to Nevada Fall, from where there is still a gorgeous view of the blue mountains.
This year we took the left fork, and so continued our hike that followed pretty well and flat for about a mile. But that was where the laidback conversational part of the hike ended. All too soon we were back in the forest now curving around to the back of the dome. I recommend taking a good break before reaching the end of the woods, because this forested area is going to be your last shade for a very long time.
    The granite escalates past your vision, so as you climb up the steps leading to the top of the first rise you can't see where, if ever, they end. Here it is very important to stay hydrated because the sun beats down as if you were still in Bakersfield, and some folks even leave their hiking backpacks at the bottom of the base, or even along the way. After a very steep climb the steps end and here it is very important to have invested in a pair of hiking shoes with good traction. We slowly and carefully tracked leaning forward to keep balance.
    At the top is another rest area, right before the highly anticipated cables. This is the place to stop and pray. To get to the final peak, the very top of the Half-Dome, there is one final wall to scale. But here there are no longer any stairs, or rocks, but rather just one massive face of rock laced with wooden blocks and steel wire cables. Take a good break beforehand because this can take from 15 to 30 minutes depending on your form. Also this is on wide-open rock with drops all around so this is definitely not a recommended hike for those with a fear of heights.
    However, once you reach the top, all fear, exhaustion and pain is forgotten staring off into the blue and white mountain peaks, and specks that once looked like trees and rivers. At this point all of the time and energy my dad and I had spent that day and the many days before preparing for this hike were cashed in for the most amazing view and sense of accomplishment. It was my dad's most memorable –– and I hope favorite –– birthday celebration.
    But our time there was soon brought to an end by impeding storm clouds –– a very dangerous and deadly predicament to be in while on the highest point for miles on solid granite. We had not raced off the mountain for five minutes when the storm hit, and boy did it hit hard. For four miles back we hiked in pouring rain, thunder and unceasing lightening flashes. Investment in a $99-cent rain poncho would have been prudent. For two of those miles I sounded like a frog with my hiccups. For those with not so reliable knees like me, knee-braces are a must for the descent of this hike. They tell you not to take anything from the park, but by the time we reached Nevada Fall and the storm stopped I felt like I had about half the park in my shoes and on the back of my legs. Other than that the hike down was as killer as ever on my knees and just as painful for my toes –– their first time in my new hiking boots. By the time we were close to the end I was actually hoping for some elevation.
    The Half-Dome is conclusively a hard hike, one that takes a lot out you but builds you up even more. Kids would be fine climbing up to Vernon and Nevada Falls, but I would recommend saving the Half-Dome for their later years. It is must-hike going to Yosemite, and also a magnificent place to reach on your birthday.

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